Containers

Many different types of containers from commercial trays to yogurt cups are available for seed-starting as long as they have adequate drainage holes. Used containers must be sterilized by rinsing them in a solution of one part chlorine bleach to ten parts water.

Soil Mix

Always start with a sterile germinating mix. Do not used garden soil which can harbor disease organisms. Moisten mix with room temperature water prior to filling containers. Fill containers and gently tamp soil down. As a rule, plant seeds at a depth two to three times their diameter.

Planting

Very fine seeds such as petunia should be sown on the surface. Moisten the surface after planting with a fine mist of water. Large seeded vegetables that resent transplanting, such as cantaloupe and watermelon should be planted directly into peat pots.

Some seeds have specific light or dark requirements for germination. Sow seeds that require light on top of the soil.

Cover containers with clear plastic wrap or clear plastic bags and place in a warm location for germination. Do not place covered containers in direct sunlight. Check daily for signs of germination.

Special Techniques

Scarification is the art of nicking or goughing up ahard seed coat with sandpaper or a nail file also works great, this will enable the germination shoot to emerge. Some seeds that benefit from this include moonflower and morning glory among others.

Stratification mimics the cold/moist condition of the winter. Place seeds between layers of moist soil mix, cover and refrigerate for several weeks. Purple coneflower and violas benefit from this process.

Growing Seedlings

Light - Seedlings must receive bright light promptly after germination. Remove cover and place in a bright south window or under fluorescent lights. Ordinary shop lights with 40 watt bulbs work great. Place seedlings 2 inches from the tubes and keep lights on fourteen to sixteen hours each day.

Temperature - Most annual plants and vegetables prefer night temperatures between 60-65 degrees. Cool season plants prefer night temperatures no higher than 55 degrees. An unused bedroom or basement is perfect. Day temperatures may run up to ten degrees higher.

Fertilization - Do not fertilize seedlings until they have developed their first set of true leaves. Use a soluble house plant fertilizer at ¼ to ½ the recommended strength.

Thinning and Transplanting - After seedlings have developed their first set of leaves, thin them to one per individual container by either pulling up extras with tweezers or cutting off with scissors. Extra seedlings you pull up may be transplanted into other containers. Handle them carefully by the seed or cotyledon leaves, not the stem. A few plants such as alyssum, lobelia, chives, dill and parsley don't mind being crowded and so may be transplanted into garden as a clump. When to Move Outdoors

Plants that have been growing indoors can't be planted abruptly into the garden without danger of injury. They must be hardened off prior to planting outdoors. Start two weeks ahead of desire planting date. When first put outdoors place plants in the shade, then gradually move into the sunlight for short periods each day. Do not put tenders seedlings outdoors on windy days or when temperature are below 45 degrees

More Helpful Tips

-Don't start plants too soon. Check seed packages for proper timing to see when the last frost is for your region. -Write the plant names on labels in advance, so you can insert a label into each pot as soon as you sow the seeds. -To get the seeds out one at a time, fold a sharp crease in the seed packet, then shake the packet so the seeds line up in the crease. -Presoak large seeds such as been or pea or those with hard seed coats. -Prevention is the best way to control pest and disease. Avoid high temperature, poor light or excess moisture. -Most annual flowers respond to pinching, which encourages side branching. -If kept cool and dry, seeds will last for years. Store seed packets in a ziplock bag in the back of your refrigerator.